Antique Pocketwatch Restoration, Repair, Cleaning and Service

What is Watch Cleaning?

Mechanical watch service and repair is traditionally referred to as watch cleaning, and it's important for vintage watches.

The oils that were once used were organic (from sea animals), and would eventually turn gummy. Grit particles stuck in that gummy oil become abrasive, and cause damage as the watch runs. People used to get their watches cleaned every year, but modern synthetic oils last far longer. So getting the old stuff out of there, and getting dirt out, gets your watch ready for the long haul as an antique. And if there's any trace of rust that may have started decades ago, cleaning will make sure it doesn't get worse.

Running a mechanical watch without cleaning and new lubrication is very much like running a car without changing the oil.

Watch cleaning includes:

• Complete disassembly and individual cleaning of all the parts of your watch.
• Inspection for damaged parts including worn or broken pivots, cracked jewels, bent or missing teeth, and more.
• Repair or replacement of any and all parts found worn, damaged or otherwise unusable, including proper rebuilding of balance assemblies, other staffs, springs, wheels and jewels.
• Cleaning, adjusting and re-seating of jewels and other pivots as needed.
• Removal and cleaning, or replacement, of the mainspring.
• Other procedures such as hairspring adjustment, setting to beat, pivot polishing, etc. as needed.
• Reassembly and proper lubrication throughout.
• Basic timing.

There seem to be services available that "clean" a watch by simply removing the entire movement from the case, perhaps replacing the mainspring, and running it as-is through an ultra-sonic cleaning machine (here are a couple examples I have seen here, and here), and replacing it in the case. In doing this, dirt will tend to just settle back into the watch, usually in a much worse place. This method is also unlikely to completely remove old oil. Proper watch cleaning always involves complete disassembly.

I use period techniques and materials throughout the work. Tools, procedures and materials I use with antique watches are consistent with the original recommendations of the Elgin National Watch Co. I have taken care to learn and apply professional, and frequently old-fashioned, methods.I learned to do this work from my Grandfather, Everett Sexton, who attended the Elgin watchmakers college in the 1930s. He had a long career as a watchmaker of some reputation. He never lost his fondness for Elgin products. At school, Everett Sexton was recognized for unusual skills and was personally instructed by William Samelius. I am very fortunate for this. Although I've read a lot of books on watchmaking, and I can tell you that there is much I learned from my Grandfather, that you won't find in a book.

If you have more questions that are not addressed on this page, I have a repair FAQ, here with more information.

Elgin Movement Serial Numbers

You can learn quite a bit about your Elgin watch from the serial number of the watch works, or movement, inside. Check here for information on how to open a pocketwatch case, to access the movement number. Look here for an online database of Elgin watch production history.

If you already know the serial number of your Elgin movement, enter it here for complete information!